Roller lifter question

[Mike Van Veghten]

I know that this question is well above the CASO realm of most Stude owners, but so is putting a roller cam into a Stude block.

There are a coupla different manufacturers of "keyed" lifters (no tie bar).
Has anyone tried them in a Stude block (any brand) ?

Mike

[shifter44]

I certainly hope that someone does answer this question .

I've been wondering about it too for some time .

[PackardV8]

The missing link (wink) is the jig to drill the lifter bores for the alignment pin. It has to be exact, because, as you all know, roller lifters have to run true to the cam lobe. Any mis-alignment results in immediate failure.

Interestingly, most endurance race engines run dog-bone retainers rather than link or pin; no moving parts or alignment jig boring. Given the few miles a Stude race engine would experience, it's moot.

jack vines

[Mike Van Veghten]

I would think that the cutting tool (cutter/broach) would be more expensive.
Setup tools, IF...done well (designed), aren't normally too bad cost wise. Especially if you can spread it out between two of three others. And I "know" that there are more than a couple of roller cams out there in Studom, needing lifters.

Mike

[diggerdavem]

Mike, I use the late hemi 426 roller lifter from comp cams. Phil H. of Fareborn has the dog leg link bars to clear casting web between lifter bores. They work well for me.
diggerdave

[Mike Van Veghten]

Hey Dave -

Thanks for the info.
I'm starting to get back onto the task of finishing that engine. Many other projects have been pushed ahead of it for various reasons. Though I did finish the crossram intake manifold for it a few months back.

Thanks again, Will call Phil about a coupla sets.

Mike

[Jeff Rice]

To add to Digger's comment.
The casting webs in question (up in the valley) only interfere with the removal and installation of the roller rocker 'set' when the cam is installed. If you are planning a retrofit on an already assembled engine short block, then the 'dipped' links provide web clearance when removing and installing the roller lifters.
But... If you are building an engine up... You can take a 4" angle grinder and reach up and grind a small notch in those webs to provide clearance for the straight link bar (that come with the roller lifters). The amount of web removed is minimal, so no strength is removed.
Takes about 5 minutes to do. But it needs to be done before cleaning the block for re-assembly.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Thanks Jeff.
Don't recall why, but I did that some time back.
Maybe just to get"em outta the way, cause they "looked" like they might be in the way of the tie bars !?

Mike

[Alan]

Mike, I use the Isky lifters for a Chrysler 440, but I get the dog bones for a Chev. V6. The short one's, it uses 2 different lengths. Perfect for the Stude. No grinding or other mods.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Thanks Alan.
I recall talking with you, about that some time ago.

May take a look at both, see what I like best.

While they are really expensive, I'm going to buy the lifters with the bushings in them at the roller, rather than the bearings. I see them as MUCH more durable, or safer on the street. I've seen the damage that can happen when the roller bearings find their way "out" of the confines of the roller wheel !

Mike

[Alan]

Mike the tie bar number is GB 801

[Mike Van Veghten]

Great, thank you kind sir.

Mike

[Alan]

Don't know if you are still looking for lifters, but the Isky non bearing lifters are almost twice the price of the bearing one's.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Hey Alan -

Yeah, I know. Everyone's bushing lifter is more money. But being that if I ever get to finishing this engine, some of its life will be on the street. I figure that the bushing style bearing might well survive better on the street.
I also found that the Crower lifters appear to have a better oil to bushing system than others. At least I like it better.

The only thing that no one seems to be able to fully answer, is...WHAT's the difference between the Chrysler and Chevy lifter ? I can't get a straight answer out of any of the manufacturers !

I've contacted Isky half a dozen times about their lifter tie bars. Can't seem to get a straight answer about whether they are still available ! I keep getting a run-around about a "better" way of doing that, but never get a straight answer in return. It's always, "call me back tomorrow". I call, but still, no answer ! Again, "give me a coupla days". I call back, no answer..!

Mike

[PackardV8]

The only thing that no one seems to be able to fully answer, is...WHAT's the difference between the Chrysler and Chevy lifter ? I can't get a straight answer out of any of the manufacturers !

I've contacted Isky half a dozen times about their lifter tie bars. Can't seem to get a straight answer about whether they are still available ! I keep getting a run-around about a "better" way of doing that, but never get a straight answer in return. It's always, "call me back tomorrow". I call, but still, no answer ! Again, "give me a coupla days". I call back, no answer..!

Mike

Hi, Mike,

We learned the hard way there is a difference and the Chevy lifters cannot be used in a Studebaker because they are designed to oil the rocker arms through the pushrods. Very soon, all the oil will be in the lifter valley and oil pressure goes away.

jack vines