Engine swap

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Tobymilo
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Engine swap

Post by Tobymilo »

I am so happy to have found this group after hours of internet searches with no results.

I just bought a 65 Daytona, and plan to swap the engine and transmission to a 400hp Gm crate motor and a 5 speed.

Does anyone know what exhaust will fit and what 5 speed will fit in the tunnel without modifications? (Other than a new transmission mount)
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Champion V8
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Champion V8 »

Good to see someone spotting this cool site!
(I still consider myself a new member here compared to the rest, if you look at my post about Josephine you'll see another engine & gearbox swap)
I was told by everyone that a MoPar Torqflite wouldn't fit in/under Josephine so I made a cut before the trans was in cuz I didn't want the steel dust on whatever but I soon found that it wasn't needed so I had to weld it.
(It later on turned out I wasn't the only guy prefering MoPar trans.)
If I were you I'd just tilt it in bolted to the engine & see what needs to be done, & if you can use cutter & welder there aint many problems that can't be solved!

& now we NEED pictures! ;)
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Tobymilo
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Tobymilo »

I was hoping someone here has put in a tremec or muncie that wouldn't require modification to the tunnel.

Also, given the steering linkage on these cars what exhaust would fit.
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shifter44
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Re: Engine swap

Post by shifter44 »

Is the engine that you are going to put in a SBC ? If that is the case , since '65 Stude's had SBC's originally , it should work with a stock exh. manifold .
I have seen threads on either this forum , or on the SDC one , about headers etc for this application . Use the Search box on each to see if you can find one of those threads . From my foggy memory , I think that the Block Hugger type of headers may work .
I do not follow the transmission side of things much ( my car has a Turbo 350 ) , but the Stude has a good bit of room , and others such as Richard Poe have used 5 speeds , which I think are the Tremec . ???
If you can't get there in a STUDEBAKER,
it ain't worth goin' .

Bill H .
Mike Van Veghten
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Mike Van Veghten »

Note, that what is said by shifter, above is true, and that you should be able to find OEM front motor mounts, just a heads up...

One thing, you NEED to use an oil pan that is very shallow in the front. Or, that is, close to the crank shaft.
Most aftermarket pans wont work.. I don't know what the pan looks like on the engine that you have, but just beware.

I built a small Chevy for my 60 Lark. It has an aftermarket pan on it that has a deep, wide sump. The FRONT of the pan is too deep. It hits the steering bell crank, hard. With one motor mount bolt in place, the engine sat at about a 10° angle.!
So...after a lot of deliberation...rather than use a shallow (front only) pan, I cut the frame off and built my own front clip and used an 84 Corvette suspension parts. No more steering interference.

All this is to say, use the correct oil pan for the chassis.

Mike
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shifter44
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Re: Engine swap

Post by shifter44 »

If you can't get there in a STUDEBAKER,
it ain't worth goin' .

Bill H .
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Jessie J.
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Jessie J. »

Tobymilo wrote: 19 May 2021, 11:40 I was hoping someone here has put in a tremec or muncie that wouldn't require modification to the tunnel
Back in ‘69 I replaced the FoM in my ‘65 Cruiser 283 with a Warner T-10 4 speed. Used a Chevelle bell housing, and a salvaged Stude clutch pedal assembly. Other than a bit of jiggering with the clutch linkage everything fit and bolted up like factory. Never had a bit of problem with it in tens of thousands of miles, and hundreds of burnouts. Muncie ought to fit fine too, tremec’s will fit, but the real challenge now is in finding the ‘right’ one out of the dozens of variations.
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Jessie J.
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Jessie J. »

One problem I did have with my Chevybaker was tearing the drivers side motor mount apart on hard launches. Not good as the engine would then rock over and short out the alternator against the fender. Installing a short length of chain from the drivers side exhaust manifold to the frame permanently solved the breaking motor mounts problem.
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Tobymilo
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Tobymilo »

Jessie J. wrote: 21 May 2021, 00:26
Tobymilo wrote: 19 May 2021, 11:40 I was hoping someone here has put in a tremec or muncie that wouldn't require modification to the tunnel
Back in ‘69 I replaced the FoM in my ‘65 Cruiser 283 with a Warner T-10 4 speed. Used a Chevelle bell housing, and a salvaged Stude clutch pedal assembly. Other than a bit of jiggering with the clutch linkage everything fit and bolted up like factory. Never had a bit of problem with it in tens of thousands of miles, and hundreds of burnouts. Muncie ought to fit fine too, tremec’s will fit, but the real challenge now is in finding the ‘right’ one out of the dozens of variations.
Do you think a T-10 could be used with the BW 3 speed bell housing I have now?
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Jessie J.
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Jessie J. »

Tobymilo wrote: 21 May 2021, 11:27
Jessie J. wrote: 21 May 2021, 00:26
Tobymilo wrote: 19 May 2021, 11:40 I was hoping someone here has put in a tremec or muncie that wouldn't require modification to the tunnel
Do you think a T-10 could be used with the BW 3 speed bell housing I have now?
This one I honestly don’t know the answer. Although we did also own a new ‘66 Commander with 283 and 3 speed o/d for a year, I never had any occasion to check out how or with what the factory joined the two. I’m sure that there are members that have that information.

SBC bellhousings are plentiful and inexpensive. Keeping a matched GM engine and trans would still be my go to -unless the car already has a matching pattern STUDEBAKER T-10. ‘61-62 STUDEBAKER T-10 4 speed transmissions has the GM trans bolt pattern, in 63-64 they reverted to the Ford trans bolt pattern, which is likely what a V-8 stick shift ‘65 Stude would have. Ford pattern trans won’t bolt up to GM pattern bell.
Also the Studebaker manual transmission input shaft is quite a bit longer than those used in GM vehicles, so using a Stude trans behind a GM bell requires either shortening the input shaft or placing a about 1” thick spacer between trans and bell housing.

The T-10 trans I installed in my ‘65 came out of a ‘62 Daytona so had the GM pattern. I shortened the input with a carbide blade cut of saw AND spaced it out from the bell with a 3/4” stack of washers. I was 17, it worked, but I wouldn’t do that to any rare Studebaker T-10 now.

Using a Ford trans that matches the Studebaker bell creates a different problem as the Ford input shaft is -shorter- than both Stude and GM shafts, requiring a extended pilot bushing.
Thus it’s much simpler and easier to use GM engine, bell, and trans together.
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Champion V8
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Champion V8 »

I reckon you ought to get hold on/borrow a engine-&-trans settup to try; if the trans is to high you have to raise/cut the tunell due to the front on the engine's oilpan has to be quite high up cuz of the bellcrank & it's nice to have a good angle to the driveshaft.
Or otherwise you do like I did & what people used to do: Just get the stuff & work your way to make it work.
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Jessie J.
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Jessie J. »

The '62-64 Studebaker Larks were factory available with the optional Warner T-10 4 speed.
The only change to the trans tunnel was cutting a large hole for the floor shifter and screwing down a fiberglass tower. (I still have a '64 Lark factory 4 speed parts car out back , and a couple of those towers) There is plenty of tunnel clearance for almost any of the popular manual transmissions used behind SBCs.
I have couple New Process (Mopar) 833 o/d's that I picked up to replace the T-86 o/d in my very original '64 Daytona, but never got around to it and now likely never will. Even have an adapter to bolt the hell-for-strong (Hemi) 833 up to a Chevy, or Chevy pattern Stude housing.

Of course as Champion points out, if the crankshaft centerline of any particular engine is for any reason jacked up to clear that center steering pivot, you may have interference at the firewall, ...as well as a host of other alignment and vibration issues.
With the SBC these problems are easy to resolve by obtaining a SBC oil pan with a shallow front the same or similar to the one used on the factory '65-'66 Studebaker 283.
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Tobymilo
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Tobymilo »

No turning back now.
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Jessie J.
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Jessie J. »

May The Force be with you. :)
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Tobymilo
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Re: Engine swap

Post by Tobymilo »

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